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Print Light

Ebay listings for Print Light products.

Chesterfield 106″ long Sofa Printed soft glove Leather light brown on SALE $4,900.00

Catholic Light Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $909.99

Downtown City Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $909.99

Road Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $909.99

LIGHT GREEN ANIMAL PRINT MODERN SQUARE 6X7 GABBEH PERSIAN ORIENTAL AREA RUG NEW $630.00

Ted Mclaren-1965 Mustang Tail Light Print on Canvas 0401-3450 $499.00

Hot Rod Head Lights Print on Canvas 0002-1023 $499.00

Modern STILETTO Shoe ART LEOPARD PRINT Lamp in high heels! FLOOR & TABLE LAMP $394.93

Modern STILETTO Shoe ART LEOPARD PRINT Lamp in high heels! FLOOR & TABLE LAMP $394.93

Catholic Light Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $426.39

Downtown City Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $426.39

Road Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $426.39

Catholic Light Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $404.94

Downtown City Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $404.94

Road Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $404.94

Dainolite DM803-F-PC 7-Light Chrome Floor Lamp Tree Branch Print Shade $364.32

Catholic Light Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $349.74

Downtown City Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $349.74

Road Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $349.74

Zebra Cowhide rug, Black & Light Beige Spinal Print $329.00

Zebra Cowhide rug, Brown & Light Beige Spinal Print $329.00

Zebra Cowhide rug, Brown & Light Beige Standard Print $329.00

Catholic Light Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $328.74

Downtown City Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $328.74

Road Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $328.74

Tokyo Street Lights Canvas Art Print Picture Japan $229.06

Light Beige Linen Japanese Print Accent Armless Chair New $269.99

ORIGINAL ORANGINA LIGHT POSTER by VILLEMOT. 21 x 15″. Printed ca 1980 $250.00

Catholic Light Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $259.44

Downtown City Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $259.44

Road Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $259.44

Tokyo Street Lights Canvas Art Print Picture Japan $205.36

Cheetah Animal Print Light Ceiling Fan – 52 Inch $249.00

Cheetah Animal Print Light Ceiling Fan – 52 Inch $249.00

Light floral print fabric upholstered round seat accent $235.19

White Finish w/Zebra Print Shade 1-Light Table Lamp $229.99

Amanti Art Evening Light Framed Art Print by Lois Gold DSW142793 $229.99

Breaking Light by Ray Hendershot Framed Fine Art Print -31.30″ x 31.30″ $224.99

RED LIGHT ABSTRACT ON STRETCHED CANVAS set of 3 each PRINT 60cmx50cmx4cm $148.47

Home Wall Decor – Poster – Print – Canvas – All Sizes Available – Nubble Light $199.00

Tokyo Street Lights Canvas Art Print Picture B $150.07

Candice Olson Dimensional Surfaces Sand Printed Scrolling Leaf Wallpaper CO2049 $193.98

Catholic Light Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $193.64

Downtown City Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $193.64

Road Lights Canvas Giclee Art Print – Giclee Canvas Art Print $193.64

NEW 1 Light Floral Table Reading Lamp, Silver, White Ceramic with Floral Printed $192.60

Tokyo Street Lights Canvas Art Print Picture Japan $142.17

Tokyo Street Lights Canvas Art Print Picture B $142.17

“Light Through The Trees” CANVAS GICLEE WALL ART PRINT $189.00

“Oval Composition With Light” CANVAS WALL ART PRINT $189.00

“Light Of A Dream” CANVAS GICLEE WALL ART PRINT $189.00

“Chequerboard With Light Colours” CANVAS WALL ART $189.00

“Pernaquid Light”- Ed Hopper CANVAS WALL ART PRINT $189.00

“On Halloween By Pumpkins Light” CANVAS WALL ART PRINT $189.00

“Angel Lighting Christmas” CANVAS WALL ART PRINT $189.00

“Light Orbit” CANVAS WALL ART PRINT $189.00

RED LIGHT ABSTRACT ON STRETCHED CANVAS set of 3 each PRINT 40cmx50cmx4cm $118.78

Sean Jacobs ‘Night Lights I’ Framed Art Print $168.99

Tokyo Street Lights Canvas Art Print Picture Japan $118.47

FRAMED Multi-Color Lights Modern Decor Canvas Prints Set Of 5 READY TO HANG $128.00

FRAMED Multi-Color Lights Modern Decor Canvas Prints Set Of 5 READY TO HANG $125.00

RED LIGHT ABSTRACT ON STRETCHED CANVAS set of 3 each PRINT 40cmx30cmx4cm $97.99

“And Then I Saw The Light CANVAS GICLEE WALL ART PRINT $159.00

“Lozenge With Light Colours” CANVAS WALL ART PRINT $159.00

“Light At The End” CANVAS WALL ART PRINT $159.00

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Corelle Livingware Winter Frost 16-Piece Dinnerware Set, Service for 4 $29.63 Since Corelle is famous for producing dinnerware and bakeware that cannot be broken or chipped, it’s hard to resist holding a plate without wanting to drop it on the tile floor to see what happens. While Corelle doesn’t recommend home tests, this casual 16-piece dinnerware set is still fairly indestructible and is a real asset for busy families. Livingware is easy to maintain as it’s dishwasher-, …

Corelle Livingware Geometric 16-Piece Dinnerware Set, Service for 4 $29.80 16-Pc. Set – ((4 each): 10 1/4″ Dinner Plates. 6 3/4″ Bread & Butter Plates. 18-oz. Soup/Cereal Bowls. 11-oz. Mugs. Corelle Dinnerware has the versatility of being suitable for reheating or even cooking in conventional, convection or microwave ovens. 3-year limited break and chip warranty. Ergonomic, lightweight design allows for easy stacking of plates and bowls, conserving valuable kitchen space…

Tom and Jerry – Spotlight Collection $10.76 Tom and Jerry, the animation franchise, lasted six decades and saw several geniuses of the form–Chuck Jones, Tex Avery, and Friz Freleng–have a hand in updating and refreshing the series in later years. But Tom and Jerry: The Spotlight Collection, Premiere Volume celebrates the original mastery of producer-directors William Hanna and Joseph Barbera, who took the familiar cat-chases-mouse concept…

The White Stripes – Under Blackpool Lights $19.99 Recorded in Blackpool, England’s Empress Ballroom in January 2004 with 8mm cameras, the White Stripes’ Under Blackpool Lights comes dang close to capturing the feel of their live show. The band has always eschewed the modern contrivances of digital music-making, opting for vintage guitars, a trap kit, and tube amps to lay down their synthesis of Americana and British invasion fuzz. The grainy film…

Under Great White Northern Lights (Limited Edition Box Set) $189.97 All products are BRAND NEW and factory sealed. Fast shipping and 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed….

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Top Gun [VHS] $0.40 Jingoism, beefcake, military hardware, and a Giorgio Moroder rock score reign supreme over taste and logic in this Tony Scott film about a maverick trainee pilot (Tom Cruise) who can’t follow the rules at a Navy aviation training facility. The dogfight sequences between American and Soviet jets at the end are absolutely mechanical, though audiences loved it at the time. The love story between Crui…

Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory [VHS] $2.79 Having proven itself as a favorite film of children around the world, Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory is every bit as entertaining now as it was when originally released in 1971. There’s a timeless appeal to Roald Dahl’s classic children’s novel, which was playfully preserved in this charming musical, from the colorful carnival-like splendor of its production design to the infectious melody o…

Gerber 31-000699 Bear Grylls Survival Series Fire Starter $8.48 The product of collaboration between Gerber and survival expert Bear Grylls, the Survival Series Fire Starter is a must-have for scouting, camping, and hiking expeditions. Small and compact, this fire starter offers years of use. Watertight construction keeps tinder safe and dry, so when you need it, you can trust that it’s ready to use.Survival Series Fire StarterAt a Glance:Compact fire starter …

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Printing For Profit in Platinum From Digital Negatives – The Concise Guide – Part 4/7

Part 4/7 – Darkroom techniques.

COATING. Start mixing the solution in a short glass. For an 8×10″ print I use 15 drops of ferric oxalate, 15 of palladium/platinum, and 1 drop of Na2 at 2.5%. Many books recommend more. I do not think it is necessary, for 30 drops of solution will cover an 8×10″ print very well even with a brush.

Note: At this point you may think that the percentage of Na2 should vary depending on the print and one can not just say “one drop of Na2 at 2.5%”. This is indeed not true, for you already have the correct contrast sorted in the negative, hence ALL you digital images will print well with just ONE drop of 2.5% Na2 contrast agent. Also, ALL your prints (on the same paper) will print with the same exposure, in my case this is ~4 minutes but this time of course depends on the UV unit and you will find your own time.

With digital negatives, the printing process itself is almost routine and can not go wrong, because the negative is, in fact, spot on and perfect. Of course, getting this ‘perfection’ in the negative may take some time and tweaking.

Some may think that just one drop of 2.5% Na2 may be too little and the prints will show some fogging. I have never experienced this probably because of the small quantity of oxalic acid added to the ferric oxalate solution. Keep in mind that Na2 is a very powerful contrast agent. If you want, you can use one drop at 5%, this will also leave some room should your print show too much contrast. If you decide to do so, of course, you will have to modify slightly your Photoshop curve, as described in Part 5. Personally, I have always been using one drop at 2.5%.

Once you have the solution ready, fill/empty the syringe in the glass 3 or 4 times to mix the solution thoroughly. Get the brush and pour some little water on it, then dry it with a tissue but be sure to leave it a bit moist. Take the sheet of paper and the negative that you are going to print. Lay the negative on the paper and look at it for 5 seconds to make a visual image of where to coat (this is sufficient you do not need to draw amateurish pencil lines or make templates to limit the coating area). Remove the negative (put it back in its envelope and do not leave it exposed near the coating area or small drops of solution will inevitably land on it when coating) and get the brush, with the same hand also get the syringe. I am right handed so I quickly squirt the solution in a line from left to right along the long side of the paper. You want to form a nice long bead in the center of the paper, this does not work well if you pour the solution from a glass, hence the syringe (without needle of course!). Immediately pass the empty syringe to the other hand (which you will use to hold the paper down too) and start coating in large vertical stripes first, then horizontal and repeat until the entire area (of which you still have a visual image in your mind) is perfectly covered. No need to push hard on the brush, its own weight will be plenty. Be accurate and swift in this for the goal is coating well the paper with less solution as possible of course. If you end up with huge black borders it obviously means that you are over coating, if the negative can not fit the coated area it means, of course, that you are under coating. Some experts recommend a chemical called Tween20 to facilitate coating, to me this product has always proved to be useless. You can get yourself started practicing with something not expensive such as coffee and photocopy paper. Soon you will be able to cover the entire area leaving a nice and thin black border all around the print all by eye.

After this is done, leave the freshly coated paper to dry (I cover it temporarily with a cardboard lid for protection from light, bugs, dust etc). After about two minutes (just to allow the solution to penetrate the paper) put the sheet under the drier for another two or three minutes. Do not leave the paper to air dry too long or the solution will ‘go through’ the paper and the image will look weak. On the other hand you must allow some time before hot drying to allow the metals to penetrate and give the print the famous ‘platinum presence’. You will have to experiment a bit with these times, also depending on your climate and time of the year, humidity etc., not that it makes such a huge difference anyway. Just, as said throughout these articles, be consistent and always follow the same procedures and timing.

While the paper is drying, you can wash glass, brush and syringe, ready for your next print. What if you break a rule and do not wash them: in this case, your next print will require (considerable) less solution, like 11 drops instead of 15, a great way to save money. This is possible because, as said, all our prints use the same mix (contrast agent etc). Or, you can group the prints with the same contrast/mix before starting your printing session. However, even though it does work, I do not do this, because when I started there were no digital negatives and each negative would of course require its own (different) contrast mix, and I am used to that procedure. Also, it makes me uncomfortable (sort of cheating?). Consider this not a recommendation but a possible working trick to save some money especially when making additional prints from the same negative. Be careful: whatever your procedure, if the print has not received adequate coating, it will look quite anemic and weak. You can experiment making a test print (maybe along with a step wedge) with more or less solution and see if there is any difference.

Once the paper is dry, briefly inspect it, it should exhibit a nice and uniform orange coating. If there are flaws, like maybe small dots, you will take care of these when spotting. In fact, whatever you see on the coated paper now there is little you can do. If you see a bristle from the brush, you can try to lift it off with a scalpel. I have never experienced this with my Grumbacher though. With Cranes, depending on the batch, sometimes some small areas look lighter when seen through the light. These spots will disappear once the print is made and dry so do not worry. If there are major flaws, like thin uncoated areas, it might be a good chance to experiment with double coating, for example.

Now place the paper on the contact printing frame, then the negative and the glass and put them inside the UV unit for the required exposure. During this time you can coat another sheet for your next print or, if you are not so busy, just relax.

DEVELOPING. Now it is the moment for some magic. Just take the exposed sheet of paper and slide it swiftly in the developer tray from one side, you want it to “cut” through the surface of the solution. Some people keep the solution in a jug and splash it over the print but I do not agree with this technique. Others tilt the tray to leave a dry area at the bottom where they lay the paper and then allow the solution to cover the paper, I would not do this either. From now on, please keep in mind that we are working with water color paper that is not supposed to stay almost one hour in chemicals and running water, hence it will become very fragile, so take extreme care when handling. The image will develop immediately. It is generally recommended to let the print in the developer for one to two minutes, I have found that one minute is sufficient and there is no change in the image keeping the print longer than that (this is not silver printing). I have, however, standardized my procedure to 1,5 minutes. The temperature of the developer will have some effect on the final color (higher temperature = warmer color). I have a sort of big dish warmer under the tray even though I seldom use it, because I like the color I get at room temperature with the added benefit that of course the developer will last longer.

After developing the print, lift it and drain very well and take it to the washing tray for a quick wash, this will make the clearing solution last longer. Then you just start the clearing process passing the print from the first to the third tray (4/5 minutes each, rocking them gently every now and then, especially in the first tray) and finally in the washer for no more than 30 minutes. After washing, drain well, then get two sheets of blotting paper and gently and carefully absorb all the water from the print. If you press too much the blotting paper will leave marks in the print. At this point the print is ready for air drying on a mesh (face up, another difference from silver printing). You can inspect it but keep in mind that once dry it will be considerable darker, especially the highlights. If the print looks OK wet you can be sure that it will look too dark once dry. If you see any flaw in the print (black spots, dust, hair or whatever) do not even try to touch its surface with your finger because it will leave a mark on it. Put the blotting paper sheets to dry too, do not use them again with your next print. By the way, do not buy those blotting paper books, they tend to develop mold and will become all warped. Buy loose sheets and take care of them, or replace often. After this, you will be ready to make another print, or if you are done, just put the developer back in its bottle and wash the trays. Every printing session, I also clean the glass of the contact printing frame.

I usually leave my prints to dry overnight. If you are in a hurry, you can dry a print in the same hot air drying unit used with coated sheets, but it will not dry very flat and also you do not want to stress the paper fibers. I hot dry sometimes to quickly evaluate some prints. After the print is dry, you can assess it. The first print from a new negative, of course, needs a full evaluation, additional prints from the same negative, if you are consistent in the darkroom, will only need a quick check. I mask the black borders with a bevel window cut sheet of my usual mounting board, to avoid ruining the shadows in the print. I generally check the print in average light conditions, certainly not under a strong Fluorescent Light of course and not in the darkroom. If I am happy with the print I proceed with spotting (once flat), if I am not, it means that there is something wrong with the negative so back to Photoshop to make another one. Keep in mind that we are striving to get a good, easy to print negative, and Pictorico film is not terribly expensive, so, at least in my case, I find more convenient to make another negative.

Of course, you still have some control in the darkroom. If the print is flat you can use more contrast agent, if it is too dark or too light you can change exposure time a little. If the print is too punchy and contrasty the only solution is to make another negative. If there are areas in need of burning or dodging, which is an annoying procedure when contact printing under UV, it is better to do the corrections in Photoshop and make another negative.

Sometimes you will find that technically the print is OK yet it does not work, which means that you must develop an aesthetic correlation between what you see on the screen and what the finished print will look. In some way, what Ansel Adams called “pre-visualization”. In his method, pre-visualizing the actual print when looking at the camera’s ground glass, in our case, it is something similar but we are looking at a computer screen. A last thought on assessing platinum and especially palladium prints: the print should be beautiful and with good “presence”. The shadows should be thick and juicy, and the highlights should almost glow, i.e. be “light”. If this is not the case, often the problem is that you are printing too dark. Often people, coming from other printing processes, especially silver, follow the same visual accomplishments they were used to, with harsh contrast and deep shadows, which in my opinion is wrong in pt-pd (although there are many different schools on this). Often the mid tones are printed too dark, which is an easy fix with Photoshop. Especially with portraiture and landscapes try to stay less contrasty than you think, more “delicate”.
Further details on this in Part 5, making the digital negative.

About the Author

Luca Paradisi has been an internationally collected artist and fine art printmaker for many years. For more fine art photography inspiration you can visit his web site at artblackandwhite.com where he shows his work which includes landscapes, still life, abstracts, and architectural.

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